the last of Isla de Pascua, Rapa Nui, Easter Island

We woke up the next morning EARLY. We had the scooter till 10:30 and we’d been told we had to see the sunrise at Tongariki so we went. On a nearly empty tank of gas.. Praying we’d make it out there! We did, we waited around in the dark for the sun to grace us with its presence. It did, not with so many miraculous colors as we’d expected, but still seeing the light shine up from behind and create silhouettes of the 15 Moai was pretty incredible. I decided to draw, and most people left. That’s when the sky and statues decided to shine their brightest and I was so glad we’d stayed! Somehow, the bike made it back to the only gas station on the island. 

hello sunshine

Back in town we decided to walk along the coast, the tourist information told us that across from two islands way out in the distance we would find a cave but he said we’d need a guide to find it. We’re pretty confident in our abilities and after about an hour walking along the coast we came to the first of the two caves. The entrance hole was really not that small, and definitely not hard to find. After walking inside for just a minute or two we came to the “two windows” or two openings that opened up right onto the sea and rocks and sun. The views from both were fantastic. 

cave entrance

We walked on to the next cave; it took nearly an hour more. This cave wasn’t very big and not too interesting, it was fun though. We had to crawl for a while, so thankful to have my headlamp!

second cave entrance

The walk back I started to itch really badly. We were walking through weeds and my legs began to rash and it was awful!! I hurried back to get water on my legs as quick as possible.

That night Elias requested we eat dinner together so we did and we watched a movie called Rapa Nui. We thought it would be a boring documentary but we were mistaken! It was really intense with war, slavery, stabbings, cannibalism, etc. It’s pretty eye opening if it’s based on fact. Sheds a new light on the idea that maybe the people who created the statues hadn’t actually wanted to, maybe they were forced and a rebellion brought the fall of many of the Moai. I’m glad they escaped servitude but I do wish I could see more of the Moai’s strong faces. 

We took the next day a bit easier, we still walked alot, but we spent some time at the beach in town, signed up for a scuba dive the following day, visited a couple tattoo shops, and did all the tourist shopping for our families! In the evening we walked back out to the cave of the two windows to watch the sunset. We had to wait a little bit but it was more than worth it. The colors changing across the sky and playing onto the sea were a beautiful sight as we sat in the cave high above the water watching it all take place.

 

Absolutely Stunning!!

After the sunset we went back into town and watched more dancing and singing at the Tapati. Walking home we were exhausted, our feet barely moved but that long walk home was also incredible because of the stars overhead. More stars than I have ever seen, we looked in awe every few moments while we trudged home.

Our last full day on the island began with us heading to the dive shop to do a discovery scuba. After filling out their health questionnaire, Tyler told them he has asthma (even though its sports induced and never arises) and they told him he couldn't dive. So I did it alone.

Tyler was bummed but then excited because he got to watch a sea turtle!

The dive was incredible! I have never scuba dived before, only snorkeled and I had a little trouble getting the breathing down at first but after a minute and my instructor telling me to breathe like in yoga, I got it and we went about 10 meters underwater. I saw so many beautiful fish! Some so colorful they looked like a rainbow and some so ugly they made me laugh, I saw a fish that looked like a sword, it was long and thin and silvery. I saw a couple schools of fish as well. By the time it was over I was hooked! I can't wait to do my PADI and spend more time under the water in that incredible world.

The afternoon was boring, we did laundry, hung it to dry, did more laundry and hung that to dry. Elias wanted us to eat dinner together so we did and then watched Battleship where i immediately fell asleep.

Our last day was the 11th. Tattoo and plane day. We went to the tattoo parlor called Mokomae with the only Rapa Nui tattoo artist on the island. I went first, two days prior I had found the design that I was in love with and ready to get. 

Very happy with my Rapa Nui design!

Then it was Tyler's turn. He's been wanting a shoulder piece and found a few in the books that he had the artist mesh together.

 Back at the house we packed up all our gear, said goodbye to Elias, and walked about an hour to the airport. We were sad to say goodbye to Rapa Nui! We had a fantastic time :) Iorana.

Day 2 on Rapa Nui

Our second day was probably Tyler's favorite because the first thing we did when we got to town was rent a scooter. We then followed the map they gave us that took us on the one and only that goes around most of the island. The first half was beautiful riding along the coast, we stopped off at many Moai, including dozens that had face planted (been pulled down), I think from uprising and revolting slaves who had built them but I can't say for sure without more research.

loving his scooter

The Rano Raraku is a volcano and also the birthplace of many Moai. After climbing into the crater and admiring the little blue lake, we walked around the outside which resembled a graveyard of Moai. Random pieces of them could be seen pushing out of the dirt, in some places only a nose.

The heads were strewn about. If you look closely you can see a large Moai carved into the mountainside. It was somewhat eerie to walk around these giant statues and think of how tall they once stood and how strong.

from the top of the volcano

Find the Moai carved into the volcano near the bottom

A Compass cant find north

 From this sight it was a short drive to Tongariki, it’s the location of the 15 Moai, in all levels of degradation, but still the stand tall, in a line on the beach. They are a fantastic sight, they seem proud. 

We kept driving and at one point turned off on an unmarked road because the scooter in front of us did so. We found ourselves in a secluded cove where locals went and enjoyed their secret. The waters were clear and the sands warm. They stared at us like we weren’t in the right place, and we weren’t, we were looking for Anakena Beach. Tyler touched the clearest, bluest water he’d ever seen and then we left.

 

 We knew when we’d reached Anakena because the beach was crowded and much less beautiful. The Locals had it right. A little off the beach where was an impressive group of Moai in some of the best conditions that we saw. I think the hands of the Moai statues are very interesting, their fingers are long and thin and unlike the rest of the full figured statue.

Statues at Anakena

On the ride back towards town, we stopped at a large cave and as we’d left our scooter about a mile back with our flashlights we were happy to see some tour groups and made our way through the cave on their light sources.

For the first two weeks of February every year, Easter Island, Rapa Nui, celebrates the Tapati. It’s their two weeks of celebration and we happened to have perfect timing. That night we watched a local band play, then a dance group whose style of dance is very similar to Hawaiian, and then we saw an accordion competition. Yep, accordion. One after the next a middle aged man came on stage in his floral shirt and played a song while singing along and was then judged by the group of judges seated behind the crowd. Tyler and I were really tired so after about the 5^th or 6^th competitor we took the scooter back to the house to sleep. Good night all, sweet dreams.

Easter Island (Rapa Nui)- The first day.

      After a long 6 flights and nearly 24 hours, we arrived in Easter Island. We met our Couchsurfing host and set off to explore.

Sleepy Tyler

Pizza in New York Airport

WE HAVE ARRIVED!!

Turns out his home is a few miles from the one and only town on the island and whenever we wanted to go somewhere, we walked those few miles there and back atleast a couple times a day. The first day we had planned to start our PADI certifications but water conditions made us cancel that plan. Instead we decided to hike to Orongo,

without first purchasing sunscreen, and yes we are still very much regretting that decision. The hike was long and mostly uphill but the views along the way were lush. After a few hours we reached the top, we didn't know what to expect but we found ourselves looking down into a giant crater. It was fantastic! The crater acts as a kind of greenhouse for the island and protects many species of flora and fauna.

Tyler taking a break

Orongo.

We also saw some of the home of the Rapa Nui people who used to inhabit the island. They were low homes made of layered rock with very tiny entrances. Orongo is also the location of the Bird Man Race whose competitors were those from long ago. One man was chosen to represent each tribe and they had to climb all the way down the sheer rock face, swim with their "surfboard" out to a not too distant island, find a nest with a birds egg, swim back across and climb up the hill and give the not cracked egg to the leader, that man became the supreme bird man. It was a very brutal and deadly competition.
 

 On the way back down a truck stopped and picked us up and brought us back to town where we immediately bought sunscreen, refilled our water, and ate plenty of food!

Just on the beach close to where we lived, were some pretty incredible Moai statues, we saw them on our walks to and from town.

 We had a wonderful first day on Easter Island, I've got tons more to write about but not the time! More to come, hope you all have a splendid day :)