I guess you could say my highpoints journey started on February 1st when I applied for the Mt. Whitney lottery. Mt. Whitney, or Fishermen’s Peak as it’s known locally, is in the Sierra Nevada in California and stands at 14,508(ish), and is the highest peak in the lower 48 states. Basically, it’s higher than everywhere in the U.S. besides Alaska. I’d been wanting to go; I had the calendar reminder saved for months. On February 1st, the first day you can apply for the permit, I eagerly submitted and crossed my fingers. You don’t always need a permit for Whitney, only if you want to climb it between May and October, which I did. I applied for dates in May, just after the first year of the MEM. May is a little early; if you want to hike with no snow, go later in the summer, but we were hoping for snow!
Much to my delight, in March I received an email telling me that I got an overnight permit for me and three of my buds for May 17. I’ve heard it’s lucky to get the permit the first year you apply as not everyone receives the permit, but if you want to go, definitely apply on the first day!
I immediately asked my friend Patrick from Portland, and my friend Max Sawyer that is in my MEM cohort. He brought a friend, and that made four. We trained and prepped, unsure what the conditions would be like when we arrived. The whole hike is about 21 miles, with ~ 6,646 feet of elevation gain.
Upon arrival at the trailhead, we hiked the 6 miles to trail camp. On the way up, we were asking everyone if they had summited, many said no. The weather that day had not been ideal. We were slightly concerned but had heard that the weather the next day would be much better so we crossed our fingers and hoped for the best.
Patrick, Max and myself on the hike up
There is water at the trail camp and plenty of campsites. It started hailing and snowing like crazy right as we were getting to camp so we put up tents quickly and jumped in. When the hail stopped, we got out, refilled water and calories, and stared at the gigantic peak above us. Giddy as can be, we went to bed early, anticipating an early start.
Patrick’s headlamp died before we left camp in the morning, luckily, I had a spare, and crisis averted, I tried to eat something, and we took off, hours before daylight. We had helmets, poles, ice axes, crampons, and microspikes on us or in our packs, unsure of what to expect but wanting to be prepared.
Patrick and myself nearly past the infamous “97 switchbacks”
The hike up the infamous switchbacks was dry for quite awhile but eventually turned to snow so we threw on microspikes. Finally up on the ridge, we were greeted by one of the most glorious sunrises I have witnessed to date. And THIS is why I wake up at oh-early-thirty to start hiking.
By 7:30, we had reached summit. It didn’t take nearly as long as we had thought. Giddy as all get out, on top of the proverbial country. The conditions were cold, but amazing. Sunny and clear, not a cloud in the sky, better than we had hoped. We were all feeling fantastic, so we took our photos, howled and shouted, breathed deep.
Whitney SUMMIT- Max, Bella, myself, Patrick
The downclimb was pretty effortless, we were all amazed by what we had just accomplished. We went to a restaurant and got burgers (veggie for Bella and myself) which we scarfed down. Back at the camp, we sat in camp chairs, drank wine, and talked, while we stared up at the mountain that we had just climbed. What a day!
This definitely got me interested in highpoints, but I got busy hiking 14ers, and it would be several months before I hiked my next highpoint. I had always been interested in Elbert (14,439’), but the main route up the northeast ridge is Class 1 and I didn’t want to deal with the throngs of people, so I was planning to wait to summit until after the summer when I wouldn’t have to deal with the crowds. However, on the last weekend in August, my friend Brad and I hiked the 14er La Plata, and when we had finished and gone to Twin Lakes, I saw on Google Maps that there was a trailhead for the southeast ridge of Elbert. I had never heard about it, so I looked it up on 14ers.com and found that it was a harder trail, Class 2 with more elevation gain, which is exactly what I needed to hear.
From the Black Cloud trailhead, I hiked Elbert on August 29. At the trailhead the evening before, I started asking everyone coming down how the hike was and how long it had taken. All the responses I got were daunting. Some said 12, some said 13 hours, and they all said HARD. I had to work in the evening after the hike so this got me a little nervous about making it back in time.
I got up early and set off. Hiking in the dark by headlamp is one of my favorite things to do. Every rustle of leaves in the bushed is daunting, the stars are amazing, and the world is at peace. I made it to summit for sunrise and had the peak to myself. I love these quiet moments, waiting for the sun to brighten my world.
Thanks, people, for leaving your sign!
Round trip, the hike took me about 6 hours, and I tacked on a 13er (Cosgriff peak) that was close by. I made it to work in plenty of time! This was a fun one. If you want to get Colorado’s highpoint, this is the way I would recommend doing it. Of course, if you don’t mind throngs of people and want an easier hike, the northeast ridge is always still an option.
Having a little break from school, I decided to hike some highpoints in October. First on my list, Wheeler Peak (13,159’), New Mexico’s highpoint. I guest-lectured an undergraduate class on the 28th of September and left Gunni as soon as possible after that. I hiked it on the 30th; it’s only a little over 4 hours from Gunnison.
I car camped as usual and woke up early to start the hike. There was a chance of snow or rain, which I got to experience because the snow/hail/graupel started about 20 minutes into the hike. I forgot how much I had missed snow! The hike was a little over 8.5 miles and just short of 3,000’ of gain. It was frigid and oh so windy once I reached the ridge; the sky was starting to lighten but there was so much fog that it was barely perceptible.
Wheeler Peak Summit
I wasn’t at the summit for long; there wasn’t much to see up there. I started descending, and the sky so graciously decided to open up and show me blue for all of 12 seconds.
After an ~8-hour drive, I made it to my next destination. This hike is a bit longer, Strava clocked me at 10.2 miles, 3,359’ gain, and 4.5 hours. I had no idea it was going to be so cold though, that’s my only complaint; it was FRIGID up there on that ridge. But a great time none the less. The cool thing about these hikes is that they aren’t as high as Colorado so you stay under treeline for much longer, which means more pretty forest viewing.
Summit was COLD. My Camelbak was frozen, so no water for me. Again, summit to myself, but atleast this time I had a view!
I went home to Oregon for a week, did Archer Peak with Patrick in order to not lose my 16-week peak streak, and then went straight east till I reached North Dakota and White Butte (3,506’), the highpoint of ND. This was a very chill, few mile hike. I mean, I did it in Vans. So that’s saying something. Pretty cool though.
South Dakota’s Black Elk Peak (7,244’) was the shock of the century! This was an incredibly cool hike. The trail was a little over 7.5 miles, elevation gain was about 1,500’ and it took me about 2.5 hours. I started in the dark as snowflakes started to fall. Near the top, you go through a cave to some metal staircases before reaching this really cool lookout tower. There was no view, only dense fog, but the location and hike were well worth it.
It was a beautifully eerie hike. I loved it.
Nebraska’s highpoint (5,424’) is in the middle of a bison field. You drive right up to it. At least it was a beautiful day. I did decide to make it a little more interesting by busting out the unicorn.
Next is Oklahoma and Black Mesa (4,973’). The hike is 8.5 miles with less than 1,000 ft of gain. The hike was colder than anticipated! But it was beautiful. Definitely getting into the desert; not too many trees to be seen.
After Oklahoma, I went to Arkansas for Mount Magazine’s Signal Hill at 2,753 ft. The hike was about a mile and a half in a forest. It had hardly any elevation gain and since you’re in a forest, no view at all.
That same day, I drove to Louisiana's highpoint, Driskill Mountain (535’). Same thing, about a 2-mile hike, not much gain, in a very different forest.
Alabama’s highpoint is Cheaha mountain in Cheaha State Park. It sits at 2,401 feet above sea level and is a drive up but can also be done as a hike. I did the hike; it was honestly pretty strange. It’s like they thought the highpoint should be a hike and not a drive, so they threw a few trails together, connected by road, to make a hike to the highpoint. But the woods are really pretty there this time of year. The hike was super easy to follow in some portions, and not so easy in others; I got off trail pretty bad a time or two. The trail I did is called “Cheaha Mountain via Lake Trail” on AllTrails. It says its a little over three miles total. Hard to say how accurate that is because I went severely off route at one point. Amazing views and a decent hike.
I slept at the coolest rest stop I have ever been to, between Cheaha and Lakewood Park. This park is Florida’s highpoint. 345 feet, making it the lowest of the highpoints. I got a sweet sunrise, had a nice jaunt around the park, and set off for Georgia.
Georgia’s highpoint, Brasstown Bald (4,784’) is a drive up as well. But it's also one that you can hike, if you feel so inclined, which I do. So, I did. The route I did was called “Brasstown Bald via Jack’s Gap” on AllTrails. It says it’s a little over 6 miles and 2,200 feet of gain, my Strava concurred. My biggest complaint is that right at the start, out of nowhere, a bee came and stung my arm! It royally hurt and a couple days later, it still did. The first 2.5 miles are very uncrowded, but then you walk across a parking lot to the visitor center to hike up the rest of the now-paved trail with the masses. The views are worth the tourist jostling.
Only 2.5 hours from Brasstown Bald to Sassafrass Mountain (3,566’), South Carolina’s highpoint. I had a hike that I had planned to do here. But I got sick... So, I took the drive-up option and made it in time for a beautiful sunrise. Then another about 2.5 hours and you reach Mt. Mitchell (6,684’), the highest peak in North Carolina and the highest peak east of the Mississippi. The drive was incredible, so many fall colors and leaves blowing from the trees. It was so foggy though that there was no view from the summit, but in my sick state, I honestly didn’t really care. The fog is pretty on its own, anyway.
Less than a 3-hour drive from Mt. Mitchell is Tennesse’s highpoint, Clingman’s Dome at 6,643 feet. I had a sweet 18-mile hike planned, but alas, opted for the 1-mile trail. SAD DAY. I got there just after the sun went down and the fog was so thick, I could barely see another person until they were 5 feet in front of me. But, I took the path anyway since I knew it was short. I rushed up it, saw nothing but fog and the ghostly silhouettes of a few trees, and tromped back down, making it my third highpoint in a day. I easily did SC, NC and TN all in a day due to my lack of hiking ability.
Now the longer driving starts again to make it to Missouri’s highpoint. Taum Sauk mountain (1,772’) isn’t really much of a mountain, and the “summit” is on a 0.2-mile paved path through some glorious (fall colored for me in October) woods. It was pouring down rain and the water added a freshness to the leaves that brightened their reds and yellows. Uneventful, but beautiful. I also got my first shower in over a week- thanks rain!
Another long drive got me to my last highpoint for the trip, #19, Mt Sunflower (4,039’), the highpoint of Kansas. I got here just before sunrise and much to my delight, the expansive horizon was decorated with swirls and whisps of all my favorite colors of cotton candy. The sky looked oh so sweet and I sat in blissful wonder as the sun eventually made its appearance. This highpoint is in the middle of a working cattle ranch, so the cows abound. But the owners of the property really made the highpoint cool, as you can see in my photo.
Six hours later I was back in Gunnison; more highpoints are assuredly in my future, but for now, I've gotta get to class.