Puno was our next stop after Puerto Maldonado. We made it in
the morning and like usual did a little searching for a hostel. The minibus
that dropped us off left us close to the bus terminal and since we were mostly
just passing through Puno, we chose a hostel close by. After putting on
sunscreen and shorts we went for a walk down by the Lake Titicaca. This lake is
massive, part of it is Peruvian and part is Bolivian, and by far one of the
most beautiful I’ve yet to see. Many treasure hunters have come to this lake
because there’s a tale that when the Spaniards came chasing after the Incas,
they took their precious stones and metals and took them on boats over Lake
Titicaca but they never reached where they were heading and all the treasure is
said to be lost in the bottom of the lake.
Anyways, we got on a little boat headed for Uros the
floating Islands. There are near 100 of them and they were very touristy but
interesting to see how they live. The floor seemed to be of reeds and it felt
like walking on floating hay, they made their homes of the same. We stayed for
a while and wandered, but only a small bit because otherwise we’d be in the
water. Each floating island was not very big so you’d have to swim or boat to
the next one over. I can’t imagine that kind of restriction to movement, I need
space to run!
The islands were interesting, they let us go on two of them,
but they weren’t REALLY interesting. Just good to see and the ticket only cost
us like $5 so I’d say it was worth it.
Back in town we walked into the center to find some dinner,
we were pleased to find a big celebration of music and dance in the Plaza De
Armas. It was beautiful! They were all dressed very traditionally and they
looked like they were having a great time. (Well, by the end the women were
looking very tired.) We chose a restaurant off the square and had a tasty
‘revitalizing’ juice but my pesto spaghetti was terrible! I can’t understand
why they like to add so much extra salt but it really sucks. They do it to most
foods and my pasta was terrible because of all the salt. I felt like I needed
to wash it off. Tyler got alpaca and mashed potatoes and amazingly enough it
seemed like they switched the salt for sugar and they were the sweetest mashed
potatoes we’d ever had. We left slightly disappointed but sometimes that’s just
the way it goes.
Dancing in the Plaza de Armas |
Our yummy juice! |
Next morning we were on a bus to Bolivia. Fun fact: Pretty
much the only people who have to pay for a visa into Bolivia is Americans. So
after stamping out of Peru and walking across the border, waiting in a long
line, we were then informed that we needed to pay 360 Bolivianos. As we’d just
arrived in the country we hadn’t gotten any Bolivianos yet so we had to walk
back across the border to Peru, exchange all the soles we had left into
Bolivianos and then walk back to immigration in Bolivia, got our visa and were
directed to another woman who told us she also needed a photocopy of 3 specific
pages in our passport. So outside the immigration office we went into a little
shop, got our photocopies, gave them to the woman in immigration and finally
got back on the bus with a carton of apple juice to soothe us after all that
hectic confusion.
When we got to La Paz we immediately booked a bus to Uyuni.
We had a few hours to spare so we wandered around the city a bit.
Some yummy corn nuts! |
Around 7am I think, we got to Uyuni. We then walked all over
town looking for some kind of lodging with a vacancy. Right when we started to
think we’d have to sleep in our tent in the middle of the road, a small but
clean hostel made itself known and we quickly agreed. We purchased bread from
the market and jam from a little shop and ate our breakfast on a park bench.
The entire town of Uyuni is dedicated to selling you a trip to the salt flats
and it is incredibly hard to choose the right tour. Travelers all over the
streets were going from one tour company to the next comparing deals and hoping
the cheaper one didn’t come with its own intoxicated driver.
We wanted a little more than the one day salt flat tour but
we weren’t willing to pay for 3 nights either. Finally a gold toothed woman on
the sidewalk asked us what we were looking for and told us she had the perfect
thing at her tour company Wara Altiplano. We checked it out and considering it
was 2 days and 1 night, we agreed. The rest of the day we spent at the Train
Cemetery where trains that used to carry silver from the mines to other parts
of South America had come to rest. It was quite a beautiful and eerie place.
The Lonely Planet recommended a place called MinutemanPizza, saying it was by far the best in town and being the pizza lovers that we
are, we decided to check it out that evening. It’s inside the Tonito Hotel and
is run by a guy originally from Boston, he was incredibly friendly and helpful.
We ended up with a pizza that was half spicy llama for guess who, and pesto
primavera for the veggie over here. Our pizza included two delicious salads and
I treated myself to a glass of red wine and Tyler had a local beer.
The pizza was delicious, we had longed for something to
taste so good and we ate every bite! I enjoy walking after eating just to help
my food digest so we went for a little meander around town and found ourselves
in the midst of a Carnevale celebration. It seemed like a parade at first, but
a strange one because instead of the people coming down the street tossing
candy, they were wearing ponchos and being sprayed by the bystanders with foam
and water. Everyone was having a fantastic time, including those covered in
foam. They came in groups, each with their own little band and they danced
along as they went. I got in on the action when I got sprayed in the neck and
hair with some foam! After watching for a while we went back to the hostel to
get some rest.
After some confusion we were headed out for our days
activities, a quick stop at the train cemetery again, then off to a salt hotel,
some lunch, all pretty uninteresting things.
Tyler and his salty llama |
Tyler taking on Godzilla |
Biggest. Chocolate. Bar. Ever. |
But when we reached the salt
flats, oh man. The entire sky was reflected on the earth; all the beautiful
blue and the gray white glowing clouds above us and below. It was glorious.
Mesmerizing. I had to look between my legs too and see the world upside down
which just made everything seem more surreal. It was also pretty funny to watch
someone at a distance walk, because you could see their reflection perfectly
and their feet connect to their other feet in their reflection with every step.
I don’t know how to do this place justice through words, they just don’t seem to be enough, hopefully my
photos will help to paint a picture for you.
We stayed out on the salty sand till our feet were beyond
raw, until the world was raw and the sun chose to set. It graced us with
glimmering oranges and reds that flew from the sky and relay themselves at our
feet. It was such a warming sight to see.
We couldn’t help but go back to Minuteman for dinner again;
we barely made it in time! But we did get our pizza, different flavors this
time, and more salad. Sadly, Tyler got sick that night and was sick all night
and barely made it in the morning.
Our last day in Uyuni, they took us to a little town that
wasn’t much to see, it was still very much a run-down mining town. The thing of
interest was an ex-president of Bolivia’s house, about fifteen feet from the
house there was a wall with a door, and the door looked like any other but
opened into the mine. We were told it was for the president’s escape when there
were riots and protests. We drove through beautiful countryside and later
arrived at the hot springs which were to be the main highlight of the day. They
were hot. The hottest water I’d ever been in. Ouch. Especially with those feet
I told you were destroyed, it burned! We sat on the little steps and eased our
way in literally one step at a time until we were fully immersed (minus our
heads).
That evening we got on the bus headed back for La Paz.
HOT springs |
That smile looks a little painful! |
Next stop, a last minute decision to spend a little time in Copacabana before heading back to Peru. Lots of love to all <3
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